Heaven on a wave.

It's easy to make that mental leap to ponder eternity when you see the ocean at dawn John thinks. The ocean is eternal with it's never-ending line of blue-green waves. Endless white and silver crests to the horizon. Laying on a surfboard with the gentle up and down rhythm of the waves is so soothing, John lives to daydream, involuntarily, free-associating or by relaxing,  When the wave rises, he can see beyond the dunes to the tops of the Victorians on Ocean Boulevard-the real world- when he's lowered on the surfboard by the wave, he sees only the beach and dunes.Transcending reality on waves he's envisioning the after-life as a harmonious place. An idea of heaven where all kinds of people connect without regard to religion, wealth and social status, ethnicity, gender, age, sexuality and anything else that gets in the way of relating on a spiritual level. And to John, the more you can connect with people-all kinds of people-the closer you are to God-who created and understands everyone and everything. Maybe people keep coming back and experiencing lives until they gain this God-like empathy to everyone he wonders as he sits up on the board and comes back to a tranquil real world..

So at peace...at one with the ocean and himself, John doesn't realize he's decided to surf a wave by standing up and leaning down into it. Peacefulness goes into survival mode as his knees adjust to a liquid salty, foaming wave running against the bottom of the board as a curved wall rises on his right. A water shelter, it is a light refracted world of blues and green that is moving and collasping around him. John races across this tunnel by squatting further. He balances the water force to pull the board up the wave into its crest by shifting his weight down. Leaning left, he slices into the wave at just the right angle to stay away from the top of the wave and being flipped upside down. He steers up and down the wave by dragging his right hand in the wave. His heart jumps as he makes these moves just in time not to be tipped over or fall off the surboard. Looking into the curved wave, the water cave won't be here in another minute he thinks. There's the bright entrance. He leans into the board and slides down the rest of the wave and shoots out the 'entrance' Restriction gives way to total freedom. Joyously, turning rght and left and anyway John wants on his board....cause he's free of the wave and out on the open ocean.

Laying down and heading into shore on the surboard, white salty foam is now mixed with sand as he whisks into shallow water and feels sunshine on his skin. The surfboard rams into the sand. He let's the board just lie at the water's edge without getting up. Waves lapping at his body-like a faithful dog greeting him home. The smell of the salt air is like a fresh breath of life. After all the getting back at people he saw in New York, John has gotten back to himself.