Taking that wave on a blue surfboard
Standing up/balancing on a collapsing water mountain.
Leaning right - wave curls overhead
shooting down inside a waterfall
Using right hand, fingers stretch, hit wave/slow down/move up the curl
Looking through telescope of blue/green water
Feeling calf and ankle muscles react like shock absorbers
Shooting up the water mountain
Catching air, feeling feet slip on the surfboard
Falling backwards off a cliff-almost
Twisting left-heading straight down the wave's slope
Churning white water, foaming over surfboard's edge
Laying down on the surfboard -gliding into white foamy, shallow water
Grabbing surfboard's edge-arm hair shines with gleaming-golden sunshine
salt air fills lungs
exhale-sigh
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