The sun rises like a coward on Independence Day. It hides in a thick mist beyond the small area of the ocean that you can see. John puts his surfboard down and glances around at the empty beach, charcoal etches of barely visable buildings and boardwalk. And like a ghost, he comes into view on the boardwalk. The guy who watches John surf. Today, he's in some military jacket. Broad-shouldered, his jacket leads down to a long normal leg and a silver one--it seems- from the knee down.
John waxes his surf board and heads out to the area of the ocean near the massive pilings of the Casino pier that hold the amusement rides above. Looking like a bare, old-growth forest, the pilings change the lay of the beach, and so, how the waves break. No wonder it's a favorite surfing spot.
Deep down, every surfer is an eternal optimist...thinking 'I'll just wait for the nextwave to take.' So John paddles out and lays on the surfboard to wait. His board rises up on smooth wave crests and down into troughs between waves. Up on the crests, he sees the boardwalk and soldier watching him...down in the troughs between waves...only misty sea. The up and down motion of the ocean lulls John's eyes closed as the ocean gently washes over his feet and legs.
He groggily opens an eye as he's coming off a crest and is surprised. He doesn't see the soldier on the boardwalk as the ocean rises in front of him. He's startled when he hears a voice next to him-it's the wounded soldier. He's in shorts made from a cut-off uniform and HE's on a....surfboard?!
Soldier
'You're messed up...'
John
'What?'
Soldier
'You heard me.'
John
'I...I wasn't staring at your leg...'
Soldier laughing
'Wasn't talking about my leg. Although, now that you siad that...that was messed up too...of course you stare at it...so do I think....like where did it go? But what I'm saying is you are messed up.'
John
'k'
Soldier
'It's not 'k' or o.k.'
John decides to wait for an answer.
Soldier
'You're surfing way too close to this pier. And you do it every day. And every day when the lifeguards come on they blow a whistle at you to move away from the pier. What do-ya-have a death wish?'
The soldier's eyes have such intelligence in them. They reveal a personaly that demands the truth and isn't afraid of it.
John
'The ocean breaks differently near the pier.'
Soldier
'Your head will break too if it hits one of those pilings. You could drown. And I know you aren't into suicide...not if you're wearing that cross...'
Soldier waves his finger.
'...suicide's not allowed.'
John
'...I'm not trying to kill myself...I'm just looking to catch a good wave.'
Soldier
'Well...that's good. 'Cause I'd hate to think I've been watching a coward.'
John
'I'm no coward. I just told you I'm trying to get the best wave.'
Soldier
'Well, that's good. 'Cause sometimes it takes courage to face the day...especially if you've suffered a loss.'
John
'k. And you're creeping me out a little.'
Soldier
'...why do I know you lost someone...I attend St Catherine's. Prayers for people to get better -even by an entire congregation -don't always work. But since your dad was a marine...like me. And marines never leave anyone behind.,,'
John
'Sooo...'
Soldier
'So I'm telling you to get the heck away from the pier. Besides, you're gonna help me learn how to surf with this foot.
They turn and paddle away from the pier. John thinks out loud.
John
'If we put a strap across the front of your surfboard, you could hook your metal foot under it and steer and shift your weight with your other, normal leg.'
Soldier
'That's a plan. You see, sometimes in life...you just have to give yourself a reason to get up son.'
With that, the sun breaks through the salty mist....just enough to make the world -beyond them- seem clearer.
John waxes his surf board and heads out to the area of the ocean near the massive pilings of the Casino pier that hold the amusement rides above. Looking like a bare, old-growth forest, the pilings change the lay of the beach, and so, how the waves break. No wonder it's a favorite surfing spot.
Deep down, every surfer is an eternal optimist...thinking 'I'll just wait for the nextwave to take.' So John paddles out and lays on the surfboard to wait. His board rises up on smooth wave crests and down into troughs between waves. Up on the crests, he sees the boardwalk and soldier watching him...down in the troughs between waves...only misty sea. The up and down motion of the ocean lulls John's eyes closed as the ocean gently washes over his feet and legs.
He groggily opens an eye as he's coming off a crest and is surprised. He doesn't see the soldier on the boardwalk as the ocean rises in front of him. He's startled when he hears a voice next to him-it's the wounded soldier. He's in shorts made from a cut-off uniform and HE's on a....surfboard?!
Soldier
'You're messed up...'
John
'What?'
Soldier
'You heard me.'
John
'I...I wasn't staring at your leg...'
Soldier laughing
'Wasn't talking about my leg. Although, now that you siad that...that was messed up too...of course you stare at it...so do I think....like where did it go? But what I'm saying is you are messed up.'
John
'k'
Soldier
'It's not 'k' or o.k.'
John decides to wait for an answer.
Soldier
'You're surfing way too close to this pier. And you do it every day. And every day when the lifeguards come on they blow a whistle at you to move away from the pier. What do-ya-have a death wish?'
The soldier's eyes have such intelligence in them. They reveal a personaly that demands the truth and isn't afraid of it.
John
'The ocean breaks differently near the pier.'
Soldier
'Your head will break too if it hits one of those pilings. You could drown. And I know you aren't into suicide...not if you're wearing that cross...'
Soldier waves his finger.
'...suicide's not allowed.'
John
'...I'm not trying to kill myself...I'm just looking to catch a good wave.'
Soldier
'Well...that's good. 'Cause I'd hate to think I've been watching a coward.'
John
'I'm no coward. I just told you I'm trying to get the best wave.'
Soldier
'Well, that's good. 'Cause sometimes it takes courage to face the day...especially if you've suffered a loss.'
John
'k. And you're creeping me out a little.'
Soldier
'...why do I know you lost someone...I attend St Catherine's. Prayers for people to get better -even by an entire congregation -don't always work. But since your dad was a marine...like me. And marines never leave anyone behind.,,'
John
'Sooo...'
Soldier
'So I'm telling you to get the heck away from the pier. Besides, you're gonna help me learn how to surf with this foot.
They turn and paddle away from the pier. John thinks out loud.
John
'If we put a strap across the front of your surfboard, you could hook your metal foot under it and steer and shift your weight with your other, normal leg.'
Soldier
'That's a plan. You see, sometimes in life...you just have to give yourself a reason to get up son.'
With that, the sun breaks through the salty mist....just enough to make the world -beyond them- seem clearer.
No comments:
Post a Comment